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Rings - Setting Gemstones


Garnet Tiffany Ring Jewelry Making ProjectBling Aquamarine Ring Jewelry Making Project

 

 

 

 

 

Instructions in Making Gemstone Jewelry by Setting Gemstones into Ring Findings using Common Jewelry Tools:

With the appropriate settings, making a gemstone in a ring is no more difficult than setting the gemstone in earring or pendant findings.  The ring shown above-left is a style of ring that we call a Swirl Ring with a six prong snap in setting.  The ring shown above-right is a Tiffany style of ring, also with a snap in setting.  In this section, we will provide instructions for setting a gemstone in the Swirl Ring.  Please select here to view our instructions for setting a gemstone in a Tiffany style four prong setting.

Swirl Gemstone Ring Jewelry Making Project

Setting a gemstone in this swirl type ring is very easy and is a project that it entirely suitable for beginners.  What you require is a Swirl Ring Setting like our Item 3259 for 10mm gemstones or item 3260 for 8mm gemstones and the appropriate 10mm or 8mm round gemstone.  These settings make a size 7 ring suitable for most adult females.  The steps involved in setting the gemstone are described in the following paragraphs.

Step-by-step instructions for making a ring using a "Swirl" type finding and common jewelry supplies:

Step 1:  Place the "table" or flat side of your gemstone on a table or cutting board as shown at left.  You can view the terminology for the parts of a gemstone here.

Step 2:  Position the ring finding with the 6 prong setting on top of the gemstone as shown at right.  Grasp the ring firmly in your thumb and forefinger of your dominant hand.  All six prongs of the setting should be touching the gemstone.  If the setting seems loose, the prongs can be bent in individually using your fingers or using chain nose pliers.  The goal is that the diameter of the setting should be less than the diameter of the girdle of the gemstone so that the setting will tightly grip the gemstone once it has snapped into position. 



Step 1 To Making a Gemstone Ring Jewelry Making Technique showing jewelry supplies used.

Step 2 to Setting a Gemstone into a Swirl Ring jewelry making Project showing positioning the jewelry supplies.

Step 1 Step 2

Step 3:  Push down on the ring finding until all six prongs of the setting snap into position.  Once all 6 prongs are tightly gripping the gemstone, you are essentially done. 

Step 4:  The final step in making the ring is to visually check to verify that all six prongs are positioned appropriately.  View each prong in turn.  The groove in the prong should be gripping the gemstone at the girdle of the gemstone.  See the picture at right.




Setting a gemstone in a Swirl Ring finding jewelry making project

Step 4 Enlarged to Setting a Gemstone in a Swirl Ring Jewelry Making Project

Step 3 Step 4

Step 5 to making a ring using Swirl Finding showing using jewelry tools to adjust setting.

Step 5:  If you notice a gap between the setting and the gemstone, you can use your chain nose pliers or bent chain nose pliers to gently squeeze the gap closed.  Try to position the flat side of your pliers along the opposite side prong of the setting.  See the picture at left for how to orientate your pliers.  (The picture at left is a Tiffany Ring and it is easier to show the proper position of the pliers on this ring.)  Be careful that you do not over squeeze.  Also be careful while squeezing so that your pliers don't slip.  Slipping of your pliers can leave a "tool mark" on your ring and this should be avoided.  Pleaseview how to use our gemstone setting pliers to help bend the prongs on your setting in. 

Jewelry Making Supplies Required:

Size


Ring Finding

Gemstone
8mm Sterling Silver, Size 7, 6 Prong Swirl Ring, Item 3260 Any 8mm gemstone
10mm Sterling Silver, Size 7, 6 Prong Swirl Ring, Item 3259 Any 10mm gemstone

Problems with making a gemstone ring?

Due to chaos theory it will happen that for a very few rings, these instructions won't work.  The prongs in the setting won't be positioned correctly to fit the gemstone snugly.  If this happens to you, here is what you need to do.  First, if you have a jeweler's file, file the notches in the prongs to remove any extra metal in the notch.  (This will only work with a jeweler's file because you need a very small file to get into this confined space.  If you don't have a jeweler's file, don't worry, you can still set the gemstone.)  Second, sometimes in the casting the very tip of the prong is not positioned properly to hook on the girdle of the gemstone.  This is the last 1-2mm of the prong.  Using your bent chain nose pliers or your gemstone setting pliers, bend the last 1.5mm of each prong in toward the center.  Looking at the picture above right with the aquamarine gemstone, you can see how the end of each prong needs to be bent in to hold the stone.  You want to make sure that each prong is bent in as shown in the pictures above.  Once you have done this, in almost all cases, you will be able to set the gemstone using the procedures described above.  Finally, in very rare circumstances you may need to bend each of the individual prongs very slightly in toward the center.  If this happens to you, grasp the entire prong in your bent chain nose pliers and bend it a very small amount in toward the center of the setting.  Normally, these techniques won't be required. 

Garnet Tiffany Ring Jewelry Making ProjectSetting Gemstones in Tiffany Rings

In this section, we will provide the instructions for setting a gemstone in a Tiffany style four prong setting.  This is a gemstone setting that dates back to the introduction of this setting in the late 1800's by Mr. Tiffany, a famous New York jeweler.  This is a jewelry making project that is entirely suitable for beginners. 

Setting a gemstone in a Tiffany type ring is very easy and is a project that it entirely suitable for beginners.  What you require is a Tiffany snap in setting and the appropriate sized round gemstone.  These settings make a size 7 ring suitable for most adult females.  The steps involved in setting the gemstone are described in the following paragraphs.

Step-by-step instructions for making a Tiffany Ring using common jewelry tools and supplies:

Step 1:  Place the "table" or flat side of your gemstone on a table or cutting board as shown at left.  You can view the terminology for the parts of a gemstone here.

Step 2:  Position the ring finding with the 4 prong setting on top of the gemstone as shown at right.  Grasp the ring firmly in your thumb and forefinger of your dominant hand.



Step 1 to Setting a Gemstone in a Tiffany Style Ring showing jewelry supplies required.

Step 2 to Setting a Gemstone into a Tiffany Ring jewelry making project.

Step 1 Step 2

Step 3:  Push down on the ring finding until all four prongs of the setting snap into position.  Once all 4 prongs are tightly gripping the gemstone, you are essentially done. 

Step 4:  Visually inspect all four prongs of the setting.  The groove in the setting should be tightly gripping the girdle of the gemstone.  In almost all cases, using the Tiffany setting we sell you won't have to make any adjustments.

Setting a gemstone in a Tiffanyl Ring finding showing jewelry supplies in position. Step 5 to Setting a Gemstone in a Tiffany Ring showing using jewelry tools to tighten setting.
Step 4 Step 5

Step 5:  With a Tiffany type of setting the process of tightening the stone in the setting is slightly different than with the Swirl 6 prong setting we discussed in the prior section.  With a Tiffany type of setting you tighten the setting by squeezing one pair of prongs together as shown at right.  Then you squeeze the opposite pair of prongs together.  You finish the tightening process by squeezing the prongs in the opposite orientation.  If you squeezed prongs 1 and 2 then 3 and 4 together in the first step of tightening, you would squeeze prongs 1 and 4 then 2 and 3 together.  This will bring all four prongs back into their original symmetrical shape.

Potential Problems:  Each end of the four prongs in this setting should have a lip used to hold the stone in place.  With many cast ring findings, the stone setter will need to cut this lip into the finding.  With the Tiffany setting that we sell, the lip has been pre-cut or cast into the shape.  Sometimes, the inside of that lip may need to be filed with a jeweler's file so that it can better hold the stone in place.  On rare occasions, you may find that the metal forming the lip (at the very tip of the prong) needs to be bent inward so that it can hook on the edge of the stone.  You may also find on rare occasions that one or more of the prongs in this setting need to be bent slightly inward using your chain nose or bent chain nose pliers so that the opening in the setting is very slightly smaller than the size of the stone in step 2 above.  Most settings won't require these adjustments, but it is possible that you may find a setting that does require these adjustments.  Remember these should be very small adjustments -- just a little filing or a little bending at a time. 

Please note that these instructions work for the Tiffany ring settings with a pre-cut notch.  A standard Tiffany setting may not work following these instructions for the simple reason that the standard setting often does not have the notch pre-cut into each of the four prongs.  For setting a standard Tiffany setting, you will need to cut the four notches, one in each prong.  Setting a gemstone in a standard Tiffany setting is definitely not a beginners project. 

 

Emerald Filigree Ring Jewelry Making ProjectSetting Gemstones in Filigree 4 Prong Rings

In this section, we will provide the instructions for setting a gemstone in a Filigree style four prong setting.  This type of setting is slightly more difficult to use than the snap in type of settings.  Setting gemstones in this Filigree setting is an advanced beginner's jewelry making project.  The steps for setting a gemstone in the Filigree Ring setting are described below.

Step-by-step instructions for making a 4 prong Filigree Ring using common jewelry making supplies and jewelry tools:

Step 1:  Hold the ring so that the setting is vertical and position the gemstone of the appropriate size in the setting as shown at left.  At this point, only gravity is holding the gemstone in place. 

Step 2:  Position your bent chain nose pliers as shown at right.  Now gently squeeze each of the four prongs down to hold the gemstone in place.  Work on opposing pairs of prongs.   If the prongs are numbered 1, 2, 3 and 4 in a clockwise direction, work on prong 1 then three followed by 2 then four.  It is better to squeeze the prongs flat against the gemstone in a two step process.  Get each prong about 1/2 way to its final position with your first squeeze, then proceed to the next prong.  Once all four prongs are 1/2 way down, go back in the same order and squeeze the prong again until the prong rests against the gemstone.  See the close-up picture at left for a view of what the prongs look like when they are fully seated against the gemstone.  Be careful when squeezing the prongs so that your pliers don't slip.  Should your pliers slip, them may leave a tool mark on the ring. 

Step 1 to Setting a Gemstone in a Filigree Ring Jewelry Making Project Step 2 to Setting a Gemstone in a Filigree Ring showing using jewelry tools to adjust setting. After Step 2 to Setting a Gemstone in a Filigree type ring jewelry making project. Finished Filigree Ring Jewelry Making Project
Step 1 Step 2 Finished Ring Finished Ring

Emerald 10mm Gemstone set in Filigree Ring setting -- Jewelry Making Project for BeginnersSummary on Making Gemstone Rings

We hope that you will like our gemstone ring jewelry making projects.   This is a great way to use our inexpensive cubic zirconia and man-made gemstones to add a little color to your life.  A birthstone ring also makes a great birthday present. 

 Click here for instructions for setting larger gemstones.

 

 



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